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Walking the Norfolk Coast - Part 2

Cart Gap to Horsey (continued from Part 1)

On the cliffs to the east of Happisburgh a line of wooden bungalows runs parallel to the sea. They extend as far as the public car park and the beach access at Cart Gap, where the foreshore levels off as the cliffs diminish. From here to Winterton-on-Sea the coastal defences protect the flat agricultural land. Our journey continues from here to Horsey.

A left turn off the coast road just through Happisburgh leads down to the beach car park at the popular, Cart Gap. This can be a busy place during the summer months, not only with beach users, but also with boat owners and jet skiers - a substantial timber slipway is provided for their use.

Adjacent to the car park is the entrance to the Bush Estate, a development of bungalows and seaside style chalets. This settlement - snuggled down in the lea of the marram hills - is quite extensive. It consists of several unmade roads, flanked with residences of eclectic architectural styles. There is a shop on site and many of the property owners reside there all the year round.
The estate owes its existence to a proposed railway extension from Mundesley to Happisburgh, approved by Parliament in 1897, but never built. Local entrepreneurs, anticipating the large increase in visitor numbers that the growing popularity of the area, and the railway would bring, bought up land for the development of coastal holiday villages. An event that none of them could have foreseen then intervened. The 1914-18 war changed everything; the fashionable image of the area evaporated.

The Bush Estate had been intended as a starting point, with the buildings eventually extending as far as Walcott. Lack of demand finally killed off the ambitious plans. Much of the land was requisitioned for agriculture during the 1939 - 45 conflict, and was eventually sold off to the farmers. Small plots of land were sold to individuals who then built their preferred design of holiday bungalow. Modern day controls would make it impossible to create anything similar to the Bush Estate, which in all honesty can only be a good thing. Having said that I do feel that it has a certain charm.
The bungalows of the Bush Estate thin out into a single line along the edge of the marram hills stretching as far as Eccles-on-Sea. Beach Road leads down to the village, which now consists of just a few permanent dwellings. They are clustered around a gap through the hills, which takes you down onto the beach. The original maritime and agricultural community of Eccles was a substantial one. Flooding, around the year 1600 destroyed most of the village; in 1605 there were only fourteen dwellings left. The constant erosion of the land then continued until the church tower eventually stood alone on the beach. It was used as a landmark by mariners until it finally fell during a gale in 1895.

The next village along the coast almost suffered a similar fate in 1953; at Sea Palling seven villagers’ lost their lives and much of the village was destroyed. Many of the original dwellings, a public house, and several business premises were lost. Most of the buildings now edge the road leading down to the beach car park or are grouped around the 14th century church of St Margaret.
Like many places along the coast of Norfolk, Sea Palling has a proud history of lifeboat service. For many years two boats operated out of the village and were supported by a coastguard station. The record boards that show the details of the numerous rescues are now displayed in the church.

The main attraction of Sea Palling for the summer visitor is the excellent sandy beach. This has a somewhat unnatural appearance caused by the effect of the offshore reefs that form the new sea defence. On the day that I visited it was very hot, and very busy; the crowded beach had a Mediterranean look about it.

Like many of these ancient Norfolk villages Sea Palling has a ghost story. The spirit of a woman in grey clothing haunts the Hall Inn; she has been seen on several occasions over the years. A strong smell of tobacco - without any obvious explanation as to the source - has also been noticed.

A short walk from Sea Palling brings you to Waxham Hall. Built in the 16th century the Hall now stands about two hundred yards from the sea. At the time of construction this distance was some fourteen miles. Much of the original building still stands, with a high boundary wall and a gateway facing towards the sea. Unfortunately, the arched opening is now blocked with a 20th century piece of corrugated iron. The church stands nearby, next to the imposing structure of Waxham Great Barn.
The barn, constructed in 1570, was recently restored at a cost of a quarter of a million pounds. This is said to be one of the finest examples of agricultural buildings in the Country, and is a very large and very impressive thatched structure. Although a car park was built next to the barn, the public does not have access. There is some disagreement about further funding to make the building suitable for visitors. The fear is that the money may be wasted, because at some time in the future the structure might be destroyed, or seriously damaged, by flooding. I did notice recently that some builders were at work at the site. Hopefully, we may yet have the opportunity to see inside the building.

About two miles further along the coast road you will see an unmade roadway on the left, leading towards the dunes. About one hundred yards down this track is a National Trust sign declaring custodianship of Horsey Estate. From here the track leads to a large open area used as a car park. There is a short walk to the beach. This is a secluded spot, which is very popular with dog walkers.

The parish of Horsey is a small community. If you drive through you will notice that the land is well wooded, with few dwellings. You should take a right turn down a narrow road that leads you to the church, and Horsey Hall; little of the Hall can be seen from the highway. It was built in 1845 for the Lord of the Manor, Robert Rising. The nearby thatched church of All Saints dates back to at least the 12th century, and some parts may be even older than that. The south wall has a stained glass window representing Miss Catherine Rising, who died in 1890. She is depicted dressed in a red gown, painting at her easel in the Hall.

Continuing the journey you will come to the National Trust car park at Horsey windpump. This building - restored in 1961 - stands against the edge of the road at the end of Horsey Dyke. Boats moor here in the summer having come from the Broads system across Horsey Mere. There is a walk from the windpump along the dyke to the mere. This is an area popular with birdwatchers. Many visitors make use of the small shop for their souvenirs and ice creams.

Horsey also has a ghost story; on warm summer nights the sounds of laughing and calling children can be heard in the precincts of the mere. In ancient times - so legend has it - bodies of dead children were not buried, but were weighted and cast into the waters. If you are interested in hearing the ghostly children, I am told that June 13th is the favoured date.

Our journey is almost at an end. I hope I have whetted your appetite and that you may take time to visit the area I have described. I am sure that you will find it a rewarding experience.
Time now for refreshment! As you travel back through Horsey watch for a right turn that takes you into Beach Road, here you will find a traditional public house, curiously named, The Nelson Head. The welcome will be a warm one; real ale and good food is available. If the company is lively, and the beer is flowing, you may well meet someone who has heard the ghostly calling of the children, at Horsey Mere.

Walking the Norfolk Coast - Part 1

Bacton to Happisburgh

If you like to relax on a Sunday morning with a cup of coffee and one of the broadsheets, you will undoubtedly have noticed the regular appearance of articles relating to the north coast of Norfolk. These are usually found in the travel or property sections. The writers seem to be having a love affair with the area of the coast between Hunstanton and Sheringham. This area is becoming increasingly fashionable; an ex- Prime Minister is now said to be occupying a property there. How times have changed.

Before the outbreak of war in 1914, the area of the county favoured by the affluent and the social elite, was further south. Centred on the Cromer and Overstrand area, it extended along the coast towards Great Yarmouth. The area’s desirability was generated by the writings of Clement Scott; in 1883 his romanticised descriptions of ‘Poppyland’ - a name he coined for the area - appeared in the Telegraph. When accessibility was improved with the coming of the railway, demand increased even more; in 1908 the rail journey time between London and Cromer was just under three hours.

The post-war years brought great change however, the rich and famous did not return to patronise the grand hotels and the area went into a gradual economic decline. The anticipated development - as an upmarket holiday area - of the coast south of Overstrand, did not materialise. Working class families were the new customers, seeking seaside holidays with less expensive accommodation.

Prompted by my lack of knowledge of its history and topography, I decided that I would set out and explore this quieter, less developed part of the coast. Over last summer I walked and drove around the coastline between Bacton and Horsey, discovering a working environment relying chiefly on agriculture. The seasonal visitor is catered for, but in a restrained way. The effect on the local economy caused by the holiday industry is less obvious than further

north. The species ‘BMW’ is less frequently spotted and pretty brick and flint cottages - so popular in north Norfolk as second homes - are few and far between.

As you travel south around the coastline you will notice that the cliffs gradually diminish in stature, becoming dunes. The sand is bound together by the roots of marram grass. These marram hills provide protection for the low-lying land, and communities, from inundation by the sea. The beaches and marram hills are glorious in the summer, and wonderful windswept havens of solitude in the winter. This piece of coast possesses some of the finest bathing beaches in Norfolk; there is clean sand in abundance to keep the children busy.

Extensive sea walls and breakwaters supplement the natural defences and have recently been reinforced by reefs of Norwegian stone, placed at enormous cost, off the beach at Sea Palling and Waxham. This expenditure was prompted by concern that due to the predicted sea level rise, all this land - which forms a natural gateway to Broadland - will be under increased threat from a North Sea surge, last experienced in the floods of January 1953. Flooding has affected settlements here for centuries; the village of Eccles was destroyed during such an event. Writings from the religious communities that existed in the area over a period of several hundred years, reveal the great hardship and damage caused by regular coastal flooding.

This landscape has also undergone change due to constant coastal erosion. Thousands of acres of land have been lost, and many structures that were erected at what was thought to be a safe distance from the eroding cliffs and beaches, are now at risk.
The village of Bacton was once a major maritime centre peaking in importance during the 17th century. Today’s bounty comes from beneath the seabed in the form of natural gas. The industrial complex of the Gas Terminal dominates the village. Erected during 1968/69 it has developed steadily over the years, most recently with the addition of the Interconnector. This underwater pipeline allows gas to be exported and imported to and from the Continent. The presence of the site has not deterred the faithful holidaymakers, many returning to Bacton year after year to stay in the caravans or chalets on the edge of the beach.

Just off the main road - through the village towards Walcott - are the remains of the once substantial Bromholm Priory. This was founded in 1113 as a satellite of Castle Acre. It became famous in its own right during the 13th century when the monks claimed to have a piece of the Cross on which Christ was crucified. This relic was said to have healing powers. Naturally this increased the number of pilgrims and consequently the income.

I walked down to Bacton beach on a beautiful still morning, passing en-route the highly original façade of the gift shop. Turning to the east I headed towards Walcott, a village best known for the piece of road that runs for several hundred yards along the sea wall. It is possible - if you can find a space in summer - to park and look out to sea. Fish and chips and ice cream are available nearby. The beach is very popular with the users of Jet Skis, who launch from there; driving at high speed through the surf they provide an entertaining spectacle for visitors.

From Walcott can be seen the tower of Happisburgh Church, jutting from the landscape. It occupies an imposing position on the cliff top only a short distance from the sea; the oldest buildings of the village are grouped around it on three sides. Approaching the church on foot, the height of the tower (110 feet), plus the elevation of the ground on which it stands - and the close proximity of the beach - creates a sight unique in Norfolk. It has been said to me that this place has an emotive atmosphere. It does have a melancholy feel even when the sun is shining, but a visit in winter when the breakers are crashing onto the beach, can be an affecting experience. This is a sad place. A reminder of the unremitting cruelty of the sea is all around, recorded on gravestones and memorials. Many young men lie here, taken in their prime by the sea. Treacherous sands off this part of the coast have exacted a heavy toll on mariners over the years.

On the 16th March 1801, HMS Invincible was wrecked on the sands with the loss of some four hundred lives. One hundred and nineteen of the ship’s company lie buried in the churchyard; in 1998 a memorial stone was laid over the grave. Nearby, a gravestone records the drowning in 1899, of a twenty-eight year old Master Mariner from Barton-on-Humber. Another - erected by public subscription - refers to the loss of the barque ‘Young England’ in 1875, with six lives lost. During the last war the bodies of three members of the Merchant Navy were taken from the sea at Happisburgh, and interred here.
In 1789 seventy ships and six hundred men were lost off this coast. This disaster led directly to the building of two lighthouses at Happisburgh, one on the cliff top (demolished in 1883) and a taller building further inland. This is the red and white-banded landmark that remains today. Trinity House transferred the ownership of the building to the Happisburgh Lighthouse Trust in 1990. Volunteers now welcome visitors during Sunday afternoons throughout the summer months. The views from the lantern room more than repay the climb; from this height the vulnerability of the land to incursions by the sea is fully revealed.

Tucked away behind the church in Happisburgh is the local hostelry, The Hill House. A plaque on the wall records the visit of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle in 1903. He is believed to have formulated the idea for a short story during his stay. The landlord’s son was in the habit of writing his name in the form of matchstick figures; this intrigued the writer and inspired the Sherlock Holmes story The Dancing Men. Conan Doyle is not the only writer to have used this area as a locale in a work; Devices and Desires by the crime novelist P.D.James, is also set on this piece of the coast.

Before we move on from Happisburgh I must recommend a visit to the Cliff House tearoom. There is an excellent view of the lighthouse from the garden tables, and the home cooking is first class. The choice of sandwiches available is interesting, including both banana, and Marmite. The road outside the tearoom ends abruptly at the cliff edge, starkly illustrating the effects of coastal erosion. Suitably refreshed I shall move on to Cart Gap.

Read Part 2

Villages of The North Norfolk Coast

The north coast of Norfolk is an area that is very special; it is beguiling and the first time visitor can rapidly become a devotee. The expansive sandy beaches, the salt marshes, pine woods, small towns and ancient harbour villages - with houses of red-brick and flint construction - are elements that combine to make a very pleasing whole.

At any season of the year something of interest can be seen. A walk along the edge of the marshes in winter, with the bracing air streaming down from the arctic – there is no land between here and the arctic continent – can be extremely invigorating. A summer stroll - drifts of blue sea lavender glowing in the warm sunshine and the singing of skylarks high above your head – is both physically relaxing and spiritually restorative. As well as its engaging natural features the area is full of historical interest and notable buildings. This part of Norfolk is perhaps best known by many as the birthplace of one of England’s greatest heroes.

Horatio Nelson took his first breath of good Norfolk air on the 29th September 1758. He was born in the Rectory at Burnham Thorpe just a few miles inland from the coast. Ten days later he was christened in the church of All Saints where no member of the congregation - even if possessed of the most active imagination - could have envisaged what the future held for the infant Horatio. The church now contains a lectern presented by the Lords of the Admiralty in 1881, as a memorial to Nelson. This was carved from a piece of oak that was once a part of H.M.S.Victory and is one of several items in the church that commemorate Nelson’s life.

A short distance North West of Burnham Thorpe lies the larger village of Burnham Market. This is a very pleasant place to visit with an attractive green and a stream running through the centre. In recent years the village has become very popular with people who are seeking second homes. Consequently, property values have soared, the cause of some amazement to those born and bred in the village. This new found status is reflected in the type and quality of retail outlets situated around the green. Amongst these is The Hoste Arms - a very popular eating-place with an excellent reputation for first class cuisine - and Gurney’s fish shop and bistro. (Featured in Homes and Gardens Magazine).

The nearby village of Burnham Overy Staithe serves many of Burnham Market’s residents as a sailing centre. The harbour area has probably changed little since Nelson’s day. As a boy he would have watched the boats going about their business, in what was then a small but bustling seaport. The channel has since silted up and small fishing boats and leisure sailors now use the harbour.

Walk on Holkham beach, a location in the Oscar
winning film, ‘Shakespeare in love’.

Three miles along the coast road towards Wells-next-the-Sea is the village of Holkham. Members of the Royal family, when staying at nearby Sandringham, use Holkham beach for winter walks. The wide sweeping sands are now to be seen by millions as a result of the beach being used as a location, in the Oscar winning film, ‘Shakespeare in Love’. Be warned! Naturists use an area of the beach. If the weather is hot and you are easily embarrassed I would suggest that you walk westwards. Assets of greater interest can be seen at Holkham Hall, a fine mansion erected between 1734 and 1760. This is the seat of the Earl of Leicester and is one of the finest estates in the County. The parkland is well wooded and stocked with deer, there is also a large artificial lake supporting a population of wildfowl. Visitors are welcomed, and after viewing the treasures inside the house, can visit the Bygones Museum or eat in The Stables restaurant.

Wells-next-the-Sea is still a working port and small ships can be seen unloading at the quay. The creek is wide and standing at the quay one has a fine view of the harbour entrance and the salt marshes; in the distance a stand of pines fringes the beach. The town has very narrow streets with passages serving the rear of the buildings and acting as useful short cuts. At the top of the main street is The Buttlands, a tree-lined green bordered by very
attractive early nineteenth century houses. Wells provides restaurants, hotels and public houses to suit all tastes.

Just inland of Wells is the village of Little Walsingham, which is one of the most important sites of Anglican and Catholic pilgrimage in the United Kingdom. Hundreds of thousands of people now visit the religious sites in the village every year. A short diversion to explore the historic sites is recommended.

Straddling the coast road three miles from Wells is Stiffkey. In the centre of the village there is an interesting shop that specialises in the restoration and sale of antique lamps. Stiffkey is also famous for the cockles found in its sands. (A long walk across the marshes!) These are known – because of a blue tint to their shells – as ‘Stewkey Blues’.

The next village along the coast provides access to the internationally important nature reserve of Blakeney Point. Ferries ply from the harbour at Morston, taking visitors across to the Point to view the resident seal population. Landing is allowed and the National Trust provides a tearoom. Boats also run a service from the larger village of Blakeney, a short distance from Morston. Standing in an ideal location near the quay at Blakeney is the Blakeney Hotel; this establishment provides high quality accommodation with views across the marshes to the Point.

There is a fine walk from Blakeney along the sea bank to the village of Cley-next-the-Sea. As you approach Cley the windmill can be seen on the skyline; it stands at the end of the quay, which was once the busy centre of a seaport. The coming of the railway age ended the trade and the channel was left to silt up. The windmill has now been restored to a high standard and provides accommodation for guests all year round. A pause in the village is rewarding; there is an excellent pottery, delicatessen, bookshop and art gallery. Cley is also an important bird-watching centre. The Cley Marshes Nature Reserve is cared for by the Norfolk Wildlife Trust and is renowned for its avocets, which are now well established and breed on the marsh.

East of Cley the coastal terrain changes as the salt marshes disappear to be replaced by sandy shingle topped beaches. The larger resort towns of Sheringham and Cromer have much to offer, both have links golf courses and good accommodation is available. The crab fishing industry plays a very important part in the life of both the towns. The Cromer crab has a particularly good reputation and should be sampled by all visitors. Watching the activities of the fishermen as they launch and recover their boats from the surf is a very popular pastime. Sheringham and Cromer are famous for the exploits of their lifeboatmen, particularly Henry Blogg of Cromer. Both lifeboat stations - in the case of Cromer a brand new one at the end of the pier – can be visited.

This area of Norfolk has much to commend it. Did I mention watching the sunset over Blakeney Point, or the freshly caught mussels that can be purchased from stalls outside the flint cottages, as you travel the coast road? Or the local delicacy: samphire, a marsh plant that is delicious. I could go on and on… A final word of advice: don’t rush your visit, take life a bit more slowly and fall into the rhythm of the place. You will quickly realise why those coastal properties are so popular as second homes.

Norfolk Bluebell Woodland

One of the great pleasures of early summer is to stroll through a Norfolk bluebell wood; the carpet of blue and the wonderful scent of the flowers are delights that lift the spirit. It can really help us to dispel those undesirable ‘blues’. But for how much longer will we be able to do this? The bluebell like many other plant species is under threat. What is the history of this beautiful plant, and how will it fare in the future?

Our native bluebell, botanical name Hyacinthoides non-scripta, is found in all parts of the British Isles except Orkney and Shetland. We are used to seeing the plant in a woodland setting but it can also thrive in open country. On the wetter western side of the country it can be found growing in hedgerows, on grass banks and even clinging to cliffs.
Over the centuries local names for the bluebell have been passed down through the generations; these vary widely in different parts of the country: bell bottle; blue bonnets; Adder’s flower; and fairy bells, are some that are still in use today. The last of these reflects some of the myths that surround the flower’s relationship with the fairy. Bluebell woods are said to be enchanted areas used by fairies and are dangerous places to linger around midnight, as this is the time that the fairies come out to dance to the music of the ringing bluebells. Be warned! They do not take kindly to human interruption.

‘Something old, something new…’

 

There are many superstitions surrounding the bluebell. It is said that if you are unfortunate enough to hear a bluebell ring then you are not long for this world! In some parts of the country it is considered unlucky to bring bluebells into the house. This may not have as much to do with the actual flower as with its colour; the colour blue was extremely significant in times past. Pharaohs of Egypt wore blue for protection against evil forces. The Virgin Mary is always depicted wearing blue clothing, attaching an element of holiness to the colour. People wore blue beads to ward off common illnesses, a tradition that did not die out in many places until the first quarter of the twentieth century. We are all familiar with the old saying, ’something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue.’ The tradition of a bride wearing something blue on her wedding day to bring good luck to the marriage is an ancient one that is still taken very seriously. I am sure that even these days there are very few brides going to the altar who are not wearing something blue - even if well hidden. Yes, even in our enlightened times we take these things very seriously. It is therefore understandable that superstition has attached itself to a flower that can be as vibrantly blue as the bluebell.

Prior to the nineteenth century the interest in plants was mainly twofold - could it be eaten or did it cure illness? In medieval times the extracts from the bluebell plant were used to treat leprosy and were believed to be effective against snakebite. During the nineteenth century flowers began to be appreciated more for their beauty and were given symbolic meaning. Given as gifts or tokens of love, the choice of the correct bloom to convey your message became very important; a whole library of flowers with different meanings was available. The bluebell became a symbol of constancy.
Powerful new medicines?
Scientists are at present investigating some of the bluebell’s unique qualities; it contains substances that may be useful in developing treatments for serious human illnesses such as cancer. Perhaps one day it will be a common site to see fields of cultivated bluebells being grown for the use of the pharmaceutical industry. But beware! All parts of the plant are poisonous to humans; the sap from the stems can also cause dermatitis. The Ministry of Agriculture reports that cases of poisoning have occurred when the bulbs have been mistaken for onions.
Is the bluebell under serious threat of decline? A real worry is the effect of global warming. If this continues to increase the plant is going to encounter great problems competing with other species. More vigorous types of plant will be appearing earlier in the growing season and may well stifle the growth of the bluebell. Beds of bluebells can be physically damaged through trampling; leaves and stems are crushed preventing the plant from storing food for the next season. However tempting it is to wander through the bluebells, resist - stay on the path. Humans are not the only culprits. In many parts of the country the size of wild deer herds is increasing. They will not eat the plant, but unlike us they don’t use footpaths thereby causing damage as they range through the woodland.
Thousands of bulbs are dug illegally
The Wildlife and Countryside Act protects the bluebell but this has not deterred unscrupulous people who quickly realised that there is a ready market for the bulbs. Naturalised gardens have become fashionable in recent years and demand has increased for wild flowers. Gangs of men visit woodland and dig thousands of bulbs that are then sold to the public through third parties. Newspaper reports of prosecutions have not stopped this business from which big money can be made. Always ensure when buying bluebells (or snowdrops) for your garden, that you are purchasing cultivated stock and not bulbs illegally removed from the wild.
It is not all bad news however, many nature conservation organisations are working hard to improve the lot of the bluebell and their efforts are already being rewarded. So get out and about this summer and visit some bluebell woodland in your area. My tip is to go very early in the morning or later in the afternoon; the colour is then at its most striking and the scent is at its strongest. If you are not sure where your nearest bluebell woods are located then contact your local Wildlife Trust who will be pleased to advise you.

Walsingham - A Place of Pilgrimage

Those that know it well cherish the area around Wells-next-the-Sea. The expansive sandy beaches, the salt marshes and pinewoods; and the charm of the town itself, combine, to make this place special to many people. A first time visitor can quickly become a devotee. However, apart from these attractions there is something else that makes this area notable. Just inland of Wells lies a village that is one of the most important sites of Anglican and Catholic pilgrimage in the United Kingdom: Little Walsingham.

Before the year 1061, Walsingham Parva, as it was then known, was an unremarkable Saxon settlement situated on the banks of the River Stiffkey; the fact that the Lord of the Manor was a Norman was not that unusual either. Immigration was quite common even then; the head of the family, named de Faverches, had settled and made his home at Walsingham. Then in 1061 something remarkable did occur that would elevate Walsingham to a position as one of the most important sites of Christian pilgrimage in England; Lady Richeldis de Faverches reported seeing a vision of the Virgin Mary.

Why was the report believed? Should such a claim be made today I suspect that the majority of the general public would meet it with cynical indifference. These however, were very different times. The word of Richeldis was not doubted; at the site of the vision, in the village, she ordered that a small house be built. This is thought to have been a simple wooden building. Word of the mystical event soon spread and visitors started to arrive at Walsingham. They were allowed to view the house, and the image of the Virgin that was placed by the altar. Richeldis obtained permission for Mass to be said, and the flow of pilgrims increased steadily.

In 1152 Augustinian Canons took responsibility for the shrine and work was commenced at the site to build a Priory Church that would become one of the wealthiest and best known in the Christian world. The completed building was some 250 feet in length; the ruin of the east window - in what are now the Abbey grounds - gives a clear impression of the scale of what was once a magnificent building.

The pilgrims came in their thousands. Most Kings of England made the journey, including Henry VIII, who ultimately would cause the demise of pilgrimage to the shrine. The wealthy came on horseback, the poor on foot. Many travelled hundreds of miles over many weeks, carrying the minimum of belongings in a sack, using a stout wooden staff for support and personal protection. Often travelling in groups -for companionship and security - they made their way, staying at monasteries and inns, en-route. The favoured route, known as the ‘Palmers’ Way’ - from the tradition of bringing a palm leaf back from a pilgrimage to the Holy Land - was via Newmarket, Brandon, Swaffham and Fakenham. They also came by sea using the port of King’s Lynn. Some made the journey in the hope of a ‘miracle’ cure for a physical ailment, many for spiritual purposes and many, no doubt, for the adventure of the trek. Whatever the reasons they came in great numbers between the creation of the shrine and the start of the Reformation in England during the reign of Henry VIII.

In 1534 the establishment at Walsingham came firmly under the control of the King. The treasures were removed and in 1538 the statue of the Virgin Mary was taken to London and publicly burned by the reformers. Much of the church was destroyed and by 1738 only the ruins that we see today remained. The great Christian centre of pilgrimage that had flourished for five hundred years was destined to lie dormant for almost a further four hundred years.

A man called Alfred Hope Patten, who arrived upon appointment to the parish in 1921, ended this dormancy. Patten was born in Devon in 1885 and was the son of a brewer. Whilst living at Hove he had become involved in the Anglo-Catholic movement; this prompted him to study and he was ordained in 1914. Early in his ministry at Walsingham he decided to attempt the re-establishment of the parish as a centre of pilgrimage. He commissioned a statue of the Virgin, which he placed in the parish church of St Mary. The first pilgrimage to the shrine was held in 1923. (Sadly St Mary’s was severely damaged by fire in 1961. It was rebuilt between 1962 and 1964 and is a credit to the craftsmen involved.)

Fr.Patten’s great ambition then became the re-creation of a Holy House as had existed in Walsingham many centuries before. He set to work to find a site and raise money for the project. A garden at the corner of Holt Road and Knight Street was selected as the most suitable position for the new building. Work commenced, and on the 15th October 1931, the Anglican Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham was blessed by Bishop O’Rorke. The building was in an Italianate style, and, it must be said, was not liked by all. Nikolaus Pevsner (The Buildings of England) was rather dismissive: likening it to a minor suburban church. However the architectural style was of little consequence to the faithful, who came in ever increasing numbers.

This new shrine had to be extended over the following years to cater for the growing number of pilgrims. Since 1931 the numbers visiting Walsingham have increased to hundreds of thousands a year. They now come from all corners of the Christian World, travelling on from airports and railway stations by car and motor coach. The parking for the vehicles, and facilities for the care and accommodation of the individuals, has had to be increased accordingly.

The Roman Catholic Shrine at Little Walsingham is known as the Slipper Chapel; it is situated approximately a mile from the village centre. The first building on the site was erected in 1325 and was used as the last stopping place for pilgrims before they made their way barefoot - hence the name - to the original Holy House. The building was reopened in 1934 and is now the centre for Roman Catholic pilgrimage to Walsingham. It incorporates a modern building, the Chapel of Reconciliation, consecrated in 1982.

On Spring Bank Holiday Monday each year the National Pilgrimage to Walsingham is held. This event has been marked in recent years by the attendance of a group of protestors who feel very strongly that the veneration of a religious statue, or as they refer to it, ‘idolatry,’ is wrong. They assemble at the Common Place around the redbrick village pump, where, prior to the procession they preach to the crowd. Holding placards aloft, they put their point of view to the watchers. When the pilgrimage procession passes, the two groups, singing at their loudest, try to drown each other out. This is generally light hearted, and although extra police are on duty they do not need to intervene.

A visit to Walsingham can be a very interesting and rewarding experience for anyone, not just for those with strong religious convictions. The village has a relaxing ambience and much of interest to see. Commercialism has thankfully been restrained at an acceptable level. A walk in the beautiful Abbey grounds at snowdrop time is highly recommended; or why not visit on the day of the National Pilgrimage and experience the atmosphere of this event the origins of which date back over nine hundred years.

Memories Of a Childhood in Norfolk

As I get older I seem to spend more time than I perhaps should, looking into the rear-view mirror of life. This is a pleasurable experience for me as I have been very lucky thus far, and my childhood spent at Cromer in Norfolk during the fifties and early sixties, was a particularly happy one.

My family moved to Cromer when my father was offered the opportunity to manage Rust’s grocery shop in the High Street. The firm was well established with shops in several Norfolk towns. Each branch of the business had its own premises with a specialist manager. In Cromer there were Rust’s shops selling: wines and spirits; drapery and haberdashery; shoes, and sweets, as well as groceries.

We moved into an apartment over the shop; it was too grand to be called a flat. I remember an ornate staircase with a full-length mirror fitted into the wall on the first landing. The rooms were very large; bay windows fitted with a central door allowed access to balconies. The bell-pulls, to summon servants from the kitchen, were still in situ in the rooms.

Although ignorant of it then, I was living in a building that had been constructed during Cromer’s golden age of Victorian and Edwardian elegance. Very wealthy members of the aristocracy favoured Cromer and grand hotels were built to cater for them. Sadly, the resort never recovered this fashionable status after the Great War. The ritzy hotels were still there, but the clientele had changed. The rich were now taking their holidays abroad, and with the advent of the package holiday industry were soon to be followed by the less well off. That said the town was still extremely busy during the summer months of the Fifties and Sixties - as it is today - and my father worked extremely long hours.

Whenever the opportunity presented itself I would go down to help in the shop after closing time, assisting by fetching and carrying to re-stock the fixtures. Father often spent Sundays redesigning his window displays, in which he took great pride. A special effort was made at Christmas time; the well-lit windows were full of tempting seasonal fare.
Food packaging as we know it today did not exist. Butter was delivered in large blocks and was worked with wooden butter ‘pats’ on a slab of marble. This was a skilled job; getting the weight right was tricky. Cheese arrived in large, heavy, barrel-shaped pieces, wrapped in a thick ‘bandage’ material that had to be opened with a knife. This was then ripped from the cheese before the block could be cut into smaller, more manageable pieces. These large cheeses were difficult to carry; a grown man’s arms wouldn’t reach all the way around. Tea was delivered in wooden chests that had markings stamped on the outside identifying the contents, and their exotic places of origin. I also remember the delights contained within numerous biscuit tins kept under the mahogany counters; shelled nuts of all kinds, and particularly, desiccated coconut - something that I developed a great taste for.

My education was resumed at Cromer Primary School, where an open coal fire was still in use to heat the classroom. I can clearly remember bringing in the crates of milk to stand in front of the fire to thaw out. I don’t think I made much of an impression on the teaching staff, or indeed, them much on me, as I can remember very little about my time there. The high point, as far as I was concerned, was when a male classmate brought a dead mole to school, which he kept in an ‘Oxo’ tin in his desk. He confided in me, and even allowed me to look at the unfortunate creature. The teacher’s nose eventually led her to the area in which he sat. She, understandably, became very agitated upon opening the tin. The offender was ordered to remove the corpse from her classroom - Immediately!

In retrospect, our greatest asset in those days was freedom. Changing times have suppressed this, and worried parents are now reticent to let their children play unsupervised. This makes the great adventures that we embarked upon, impossible now.

Much of our free time was spent on the Lighthouse Hills to the east of the town. These hills and woods provided a wonderful play area: there were the cliffs and trees to climb; a flat area for ball games; large areas of bracken in which to hide and build dens, and woodland to explore. In early summer, the heady scent of bluebells and gorse flowers would fill the air. There were blackberries to pick in autumn; and in the winter snows, blood-curdling sledge runs down the steep sides of a natural amphitheatre, known as Happy Valley.
We also spent a considerable amount of time at the bottom of the Gangway to where the fishing boats were towed when they returned from sea. The famous Cromer crabs were packed into wicker crans to go to the merchants. Sometimes a kindly fisherman would give you a crab to take home for tea.

A very important day of the week for us was Saturday. There were two main venues that we patronised, the Regal Cinema and the Rollerdrome. For a small amount, we could hire some roller skates from Mr. Troller, the proprietor of the Rollerdrome. (The site is now a supermarket car park) Relay races, which generated great excitement, and a great deal of noise from the supporters of the teams, were a feature of the sessions. Another event, which I believe was officially frowned upon but was never stopped, involved the participants holding each other around the waist, forming a human chain. As the speed of this line of people increased the turns became more exciting, and hazardous, for those on the end of the chain. Their hold was broken by the whip effect, and they would be catapulted at very high velocity, across the rink.

The Regal provided the afternoon entertainment. This consisted of a cartoon, a serial, and a feature film. The feature was usually a cowboy adventure, which would be greeted by the audience with cheers for the good guys, and booing for the bad. Special abuse was reserved for any male film character that approached a female member of the cast with romantic intentions. It is also astonishing how vocal several dozen children could become, when something went wrong with the projection equipment - an event not at all unusual in those days.

Fish and chips from the shop in Corner Street would often be the fare for tea. The proprietor, Mrs. Quercia, would wrap them in newspaper; her hands would become increasingly blackened by the ink as she served. I assure you that this in no way affected the flavour of the chips; neither did it seem to have any adverse effect on our health.

To any reader who knew Cromer in those days, and can remember being awakened by the lifeboat maroons exploding over the church; Cilla Black appearing at the Rollerdrome; the waiters’ race; singing hymns with the C.S.S.M on the beach; and standing in the rain waiting for the lifeboat to return from a rescue, I send greetings. I hope that your memories of that time are also happy ones.

Cromer - A Brief History

Expansive sandy beaches, salt marshes, beautiful countryside, charming small market towns and ancient fishing villages make North Norfolk a very popular holiday destination. Cromer - nestling in a natural fold in the landscape and dominated by the tower of the parish church - is regarded by many as the holiday centre for the area. This status can only be regarded as well deserved when the fascinating story of the development of this seaside town is known.

In the August sunshine of 1883 a man called Clement Scott made his way along the cliff top path from Cromer in Norfolk towards the adjacent village of Overstrand. He was seeking lodgings for the night having arrived in Cromer by train from London. Scott was the drama critic for the Daily Telegraph, in addition to which he occasionally wrote travel articles for the newspaper. As he walked he became aware of the tower of a church perched on the cliff edge. When he arrived at the site he found that the constant erosion of the cliffs by the North Sea had claimed the main structure of the church. All that remained was the tower and the ancient graveyard. Surrounding the gravestones were hundreds of crimson poppy flowers. Scott being of a romantic nature was enamoured with the place. He found lodgings nearby at the Mill House where the miller’s daughter Louie Jermy greeted him. This association was to last some fifteen years with Scott being a regular guest at the house.

On the 30th August 1883, an article by Scott appeared in the Telegraph. This brought to the attention of the readership the area of Norfolk that he had now christened, ‘Poppyland’. Because of his occupation Scott had many friends in the world of theatre and literature. The Mill House at Overstrand became the fashionable place to stay and Louie Jermy found that she was playing host to poets, actors and sundry intellectuals. The area became the place to be seen for the rich, and the not so rich, literati’.

This publicity and the ease of access from London provided by the arrival of the railway a few years earlier, led to ever increasing demands for accommodation to cater for the visitors. By 1887 Cromer boasted two railway stations. In 1897 an express, with only one stop, was running between Liverpool Street and Cromer. Hotels and guesthouses proliferated in Cromer and the area thronged with visitors during the busy summer months.

Local entrepreneurs were quick to realise the business potential created by the demand for high quality accommodation. A consortium of businessmen provided the funding for the first of Cromer’s great hotels. The Grand was opened on the west cliff in July 1891. It was a grand building indeed. Of red brick with fine decoration it was an imposing sight on the cliff top. The Grand set the standard for the other hotels that were to follow in rapid succession.

The Hotel De Paris, which is still trading today, was opened in 1894. Topped with a copper covered dome it stands directly above the esplanade and opposite the pier. The windows in the lower rooms have painted panels depicting local scenes, one of which is the tower of Sidestrand church. The most famous guest to grace the hotel was the Empress of Austria.

Perhaps the least pleasing of the hotels from an architectural point of view but certainly the most imposing was The Royal Links. Built on two levels the large structure dominated the surrounding landscape and could be seen on the skyline from miles around. It featured a long covered balcony allowed access to the upper rooms. This was built to provide accommodation for the keen golfers that were using the links course off the Overstrand road. Opened in 1887 the course became very popular. Its success led directly to the investment into the hotel. This imposing building was built on two levels with a long covered balcony allowing access to the upper rooms. Edward VII was a regular visitor when he was Prince of Wales and was patron of the golf club. Many other famous people of the day were guests at the hotel. Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle is said to have been staying there when he formed the idea for the story of The Hound of the Baskervilles’. A week’s stay at the hotel in 1899 would have cost 105 shillings. (£5. 25) A good dinner would have

cost you 5 shillings. These prices, although amusing to us now, would have put the hotel well out of the reach of ordinary working people and ensured its exclusivity.

A pavilion was built in the grounds of the hotel for entertainment of various kinds. Sir Henry Irving the great Shakespearian actor and Sir John Hare the fine character actor performed there. The pavilion outlived the hotel, which was tragically destroyed by fire in 1949. In 1978 the pavilion was to suffer a similar fate when it too burnt down.

The Hell and Hound of Norfolk and Suffolk

I was lucky enough to have spent my formative years living on the North Norfolk coast at Cromer - at a time when constraints on children were not as rigid as they are today – passing school holidays roaming at will, on the beach, in the woods and on the clifftops. This was in spite of a warning from my grandfather about a huge black hell-hound that also liked to wander the area, bringing death to any poor soul that happened to meet it. This creature went by the name of Black Shuck. The secret of surviving an encounter with this hound was to avert your gaze; to look into his eyes - as big as saucers and glowing like burning coals – would mean death within the day.

I was very young and impressionable and my grandfather was a true Norfolk countryman wise in country lore. Who was I to doubt the word of a man whom as a child had been, ‘witched’ by a woman in his village, as a punishment for having punched her son on the nose. He assured me that this had resulted in his body being covered with fleas, instantly. You can well understand why I took the warning about Black Shuck seriously. I intended to avoid a meeting with the hound at all costs. Certain locations were therefore avoided as the evening drew in, being considered high risk areas. This fear was however at conflict with the curiosity of a young boy; the hope being that one day I might spot the creature from a point close enough to allow me to study it, but at a sufficient distance to protect me from the ill-effects. Needless to say I never did meet Black Shuck, but my interest in the story has never waned and I recently decided to conduct some research into the phenomenon. I was surprised to find that black dog apparitions are well documented in many parts of this country and abroad.

These reported events are thought to have their origin in Norse mythology; the god Odin having a black hound as a companion in his kingdom, Asgard. The earliest written reference is in a French manuscript dated AD856. The writer describes how darkness enveloped a church during a service and a large black dog with glowing eyes appeared. It ran around the church as though searching for something and then vanished.

A similar story, but with more serious consequences, involves the churches at Bungay and Blythburgh. On the morning of the 4th August, 1577 the good folk of Bungay were worshipping in their parish church when there was a violent thunderstorm. As the storm raged outside, a large black dog ran down the aisle at great speed. It wrung the necks of two parishioners kneeling at prayer. Another unfortunate was struck on the back with great force causing a terrible burn injury. After this horrific visitation it was found that all the wheels and wires in the church clock were smashed.

That same morning, the storm reached Blythburgh church where a service was being conducted. The great dog appeared on a main beam in the roof of the church; leaping down amongst the congregation it killed two men and a boy. Another person was badly burned but survived the encounter. The dog then left the building with a huge thundering sound. As a result of this visit the claw marks of the beast can still be seen to this day, on the inside of the north door of the church.

Of course, in our modern times we believe that the lightning caused the damage and fatalities, not some ‘devil’ dog. How much easier though for the simple God fearing folk of that time to believe that the devil, rather than an act of God caused the terrible event. Besides which, it made a much more interesting tale for later generations to tell, at the Inn, on a dark stormy night.

There is some speculation that the story of Black Shuck may have been the inspiration for Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle’s, The Hound of the Baskervilles’. The author did write to his mother from Cromer about this new book on which he was about to start work. It is more likely, however, that the idea came from similar folklore relating to the county of Devon where Conan-Doyle had a close friend. A contemporary novelist, Ian McEwan, also used the theme in a recent novel. ‘Black Dogs’, published in 1992 tells a sinister story of a woman’s encounter with the creatures whilst walking in an isolated part of southern France. McEwan studied at the University of East Anglia in Norwich. Did his inspiration come from the local legend of Black Shuck

A coastguard made the most recent report of a sighting of Black Shuck: the Eastern Daily Press of the 27th April, 1972 gave a full account of the event as described by Graham Grant, the officer involved. He was on night duty at the Gorleston rescue headquarters on April 19th at 0445hrs. “I saw a large black hound type dog on the beach, about a quarter of a mile north of the lookout. What made me look was that the dog was running then stopping, as if looking for someone. I watched it for one or two minutes and then it vanished before my eyes. I kept on looking for a time but it did not reappear”. Bulldozers had recently flattened the area of beach concerned, so there was nowhere for the dog to be lost to sight. “One moment it was there, the next it had gone”, said Mr Grant. Being recently transferred from another part of the country; the officer had never heard the story of Black Shuck. A colleague, Mr Harold Cox of Cromer, related the legend to him after being told of the sighting.

In recent years our attention seems to have turned from black canines to black felines roaming the Norfolk and Suffolk countryside. Strangely no one has ever managed to shoot one of these creatures, which I find a bit odd. In my experience, gamekeepers vigorously defend their gamebird stocks and are very resourceful and skilful in dispatching predators. Surely by now one of these large cats should have been pictured in our newspapers; shot by someone defending their livestock. Perhaps the fascination with these black spectres from our very distant past has not gone away. Do we have some subconscious need for irrational belief in, and fear of, such nightmare creatures? Are the black, ‘Puma’ like animals real, or are they our modern version of Black Shuck?

(1108 Words. © David Hobart, 1998).

Bewilderwood

Families love Bewilderwood. The tourist attraction of the year in 2007 is now fully established and offers a great day out for a family. The woods are full of rope bridges, slides, magical characters, and things to do. Take boat or boardwalk to the main part of the park, and enjoy. Allow 2-4 hours.

Cromer Museum

Cromer is a seaside village on the north-eastern coast of Great Britain and the Cromer Museum is an excellent place to learn about what the town was like during the 19th Century.  There is a complete fisherman’s cottage from the Victorian age inside that allows you to see what life was like during this time.  There is also an area called the ‘Old Cromer’ Gallery which contains historic photographs and illustrations of the town.  Information on Cromer’s heyday as a Victorian seaside resort, its elegant hotels, and scandalous mixed bathing practices, and accounts of the daring rescues by Henry Blogg and the lifeboatmen can be found in the Museum as well.
The Museum recently added a geology gallery that includes a collection of fossils found in the North Norfolk area.  It shows just how important Cromer is as a geological area of importance.  The West Runton elephant – a complete and one of the oldest elephant fossils – can be viewed at the museum and visitors can also see a cast of the skull of the Mosasaur, a marine reptile that lived off the coast of North Norfolk over 80 million years ago.
The Cromer Museum recently published the 2008 Events Programme which includes information about the different events and displays that will offered throughout the year.  It can be found online at: http://www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk/img/08%20site%20leaflet%20art1_final.pdf or visitors can request a printed copy by calling the Museum on 01263 513543.

Entrance fees for adults are £2.90, children 3 to 16 £1.75, and under 4 free.  Special concessions for disabled individuals, persons aged over 60, and students are available as well as for adults in a family group.

Former Fishermans Cottage - Overstrand, Norfolk

To make a booking request please email your dates to norfolkcottagesonline@googlemail.com or call 01263 720764 / 07787 566745

Sought After Coastal Village - Fully Refurbished Throughout - Short Stroll to Lovely Quiet Beach - Sleeps 5 in 3 Bedrooms

This cozy one hundred and fifty year old ex fisherman’s cottage has been recently completely refurbished to an excellent standard. It offers a great summer holidays with with 2 outside dining/seating areas or in winter with its welcoming log burner.

Sleeps in comfort 5 guest. North Norfolk has many attractions, and this cottage is well located for easy access to many. Want to visit the beach, well it’s only 400 yards away. The local village also within walking distance offers a Cliff Top Cafe, for meals overlooking the sea, and a pub and a pub hotel serving food and drinks.

Rental periods	Per Week	Short Break
22 December - 5 January 2008	£495
5 January - 8 February	£295	£195
9-23 February	£295
23 February - 22 March	£295	£195
22 March - 19 April	£395
19 April - 24 May	£345	£245
24 - 31 May	n/a
31 May - 28 June	£375
28 June - 19July	£395
19 July - 30 August	£495
30 August - 25 October	£375
25 October - 1 November	£395
1 November - 20 December	£295	£195

Royal Cromer Golf Course

A lovely cliff 18 hole links course with plenty of challenges. Guests can play as well as members. Cromer golf course s famous for its long Par 4 holes, and windy conditions. Although Norfolk is mainly flat the course at Cromer has many hills to play round making it one of the most enjoyable courses to play in the area.

The signature hole is a long par 4 towards the lighthouse on the top of the hill. Most holes have a lovely view across the sea.